full deck
4-color black and white
Well, in Photoshop, you can take a grayscale image and switch to a CMYK mode, which will render the image as a 4-color black image. This means that once you do that, if you go to your information pallette and check the color values, what was once just a b/w gamma value is now shown as various combinations of cyan, magenta, yellow and black ink. If you were working in RGB mode, it would show you the same information, just shifted from an RGB color space to a CMYK color space.
The CMYK color space is the space that a standard Offset Web Printer will print in as well as all other standard printers.
Once you put your image into the CMYK mode, you could then adjust the color balance to your tastes, more magenta to make it warmer in color or more cyan to make it "cooler". You can also affect this by adjusting the "saturation" values.
You should make sure your "color settings" in Photoshop are set up properly for your printer. Usually the printer can tell you more about this and it is very important since many beginning users have too much black ink in their color set up, resulting in muddy colors. On some of your card (ones with oranges and reds) this is *very* important. Your "Chariot" looks like it will need care with some of the little geometric patterns in that they may tend to become a little "dead" or "muddy" because of just such a problem of having any percentage of "black" in the parts of the image where it should be only cyan and magenta. You will probably need to go into the "black channel" and erase any black in those parts of your image.
I am assuming that you are familar with Photoshop and have experience in calibrating your computer monitor for working with CMYK images and have a good 4-color intermediate proofing printer (Epson, HP, etc.) Usually, I end up adjusting my "levels" to pull out more black in 4-color images like the ones you have. You can also do this by adjusting the individual "curves" for each ink.
Part of your preparation for printing should include some sort of final 4-color proof, preferably a proof that incorporates your final line screen. For your cards, I would shoot for 175-200 lpi, preferably 200 since this is more of a fine art endevour.
Someone posted a URL for a graphics forum as well. Therein you might find more information that would help you in your work.
Lastly, as we say in the States, RTFM
Well, in Photoshop, you can take a grayscale image and switch to a CMYK mode, which will render the image as a 4-color black image. This means that once you do that, if you go to your information pallette and check the color values, what was once just a b/w gamma value is now shown as various combinations of cyan, magenta, yellow and black ink. If you were working in RGB mode, it would show you the same information, just shifted from an RGB color space to a CMYK color space.
The CMYK color space is the space that a standard Offset Web Printer will print in as well as all other standard printers.
Once you put your image into the CMYK mode, you could then adjust the color balance to your tastes, more magenta to make it warmer in color or more cyan to make it "cooler". You can also affect this by adjusting the "saturation" values.
You should make sure your "color settings" in Photoshop are set up properly for your printer. Usually the printer can tell you more about this and it is very important since many beginning users have too much black ink in their color set up, resulting in muddy colors. On some of your card (ones with oranges and reds) this is *very* important. Your "Chariot" looks like it will need care with some of the little geometric patterns in that they may tend to become a little "dead" or "muddy" because of just such a problem of having any percentage of "black" in the parts of the image where it should be only cyan and magenta. You will probably need to go into the "black channel" and erase any black in those parts of your image.
I am assuming that you are familar with Photoshop and have experience in calibrating your computer monitor for working with CMYK images and have a good 4-color intermediate proofing printer (Epson, HP, etc.) Usually, I end up adjusting my "levels" to pull out more black in 4-color images like the ones you have. You can also do this by adjusting the individual "curves" for each ink.
Part of your preparation for printing should include some sort of final 4-color proof, preferably a proof that incorporates your final line screen. For your cards, I would shoot for 175-200 lpi, preferably 200 since this is more of a fine art endevour.
Someone posted a URL for a graphics forum as well. Therein you might find more information that would help you in your work.
Lastly, as we say in the States, RTFM
hehe