Just to make it clear, it is the actual cards that are more greenish, not the scans! I can of course adjust that with something like adobe to match the actual cards. But I am wondering why the scans are less greenish then the actual cards.
As for the greenish hue on the cards, I think this is probably due to their age (and maybe quality of paper). The Pam-A crackled back has less greenish cards. But then again, the colours are different on that one compared to the R&L in intensity and saturation.
Hullo Truelighth.
Thanks again for posting the Rose & Lillies scans.
You are almost certainly correct, in that the paper on the R&L has browned/yellowed slightly, and shifted the color toward green. (Blues and cool greys will move toward green. Yellow and red may be less obviously affected, but may darken towards brown.) Because R&L is entirely different paper, the effect may be more pronounced than on the Pam-A crackle back, or other crackle back decks.
The scanner may enhance this effect.
The monitor is displaying the colors as red-green-blue. The inkjet process converts to cyan-magenta-yellow-black. Both also re-scale the image to the size of the display.
The inkjet printer, being based in cyan-magenta-yellow-black, will always have a harder time reproducing accurate greens, so there is built in software compensation at work.
It will have a subtle effect on both the screen display & the printer results.
Also the environmental lightsource that you use to look at the printed paper images will affect the appearance of the color. (This is called color temperature.)
Ordinary incandescent light will add warmth, (yellow/brown) and add to the effect of the yellowed paper.
Fluorescent light will give a cool, or sometimes greenish cast.
Daylight will give an accurate, neutral appearance. (Usually best to judge the color in daylight, or if possible, in the final target audience lighting.)
LED lighting sometimes tends toward a cool blue.
(Aside: They sell dual-bulb desk lamps that have both fluorescent and incandescent bulbs in them in order to better-approximate daylight color temperature.)
Color management should take the final display into account.
If you want optimum screen display, you must adjust for it.
If you want optimum paper print appearance, you must adjust for that.
There are software/hardware combinations that help with these calibration issues, but they are a specialty item, and not suitable for casual users.
The point is, a lot goes on.
(Even a lot more than I've mentioned here.)