Reversals with numbered pips

Ruby Jewel

I read somewhere about putting a small dot with a pen on the bottom of the card so you know whether the pips are upright or reversed. I'd suggest doing them on all the cards so they look like a feature and not a mistake by only being on some of the cards and not others.

I suppose that would be a consideration for some. But, is that a solution you would use? It would be hard for me to mark the cards.
 

Ruby Jewel

Those exactly the same (for example 8 of coins) I don't read the reversal because I don't know if their are upright or not

Do you read reversals for some of the pips but not all of them, then? I'm probably going to forgo reversals for the pips and just read them for the rest of the cards.
 

rwcarter

I suppose that would be a consideration for some. But, is that a solution you would use? It would be hard for me to mark the cards.
If reversals mattered to me, sure. And I've pimped a Rider-Waite deck, trimmed decks, and edged the cards in color. Putting a small dot on 78 cards is nothing compared to the other changes I've made to decks. :)
 

Ruby Jewel

Two methods stick out in my memory.

One is that you read it entirely intuitively, looking at the other cards, feeling their vibes, and deciding for yourself if the energy of the card in question feels negative, blocked, or otherwise like a reversal. I don't use this method myself because there is no accountability - no way to prove how I came to a certain conclusion about the card.

The other method, which I find more reliable, for reading reversals in symmetrical pips is to look at the card or cards that precede it. If the numerical values ascend at the symmetrical pip, it would be read as upright. If the numerical values descend at the symmetrical pip, it would be read as reversed.

Take for example the Six of Coins. If the previous card is the Three of Cups, it would be read upright. If the previous card is the Eight of Sticks, it would be read as reversed.

I like this method for determining reversals in those pesky symmetrical pips a lot more than just intuiting the meaning. Somehow, it feels more solid...

Ultimately, each card embodies the positive, negative, and all shades in between, so one doesn't necessarily have to use reversals in order to get the message across. A positive side to a card's meaning will always come with a warning, which might be interpreted as "reversed."

I agree that the intuitive method is too arbitrary. I don't think I would be convinced the card were reversed unless I saw it in the card itself; therefore, rather than do a lot of guesswork I'm probably just going to ignore reversals in the pips.....maybe not even use the pips....just the court cards and major arcana...not many workable choices as I see it.
 

Ruby Jewel

Thanks for all the great responses here. It is heartening to see others undergoing the same process in working this out.
 

Barleywine

Hi Barleywine. it is good to know someone else is struggling with this conundrum....I didn't concern myself with reversals until a couple of months ago when I discovered how important they can be....and since my usual deck is RW the issue didn't surface until now....when I laid out the Wirth deck.....so beautiful......but no way to tell reversals on wands and some pentacles. I do notice some differences in some of the details in the leaves, etc...but I don't think I would be able to remember what decision I came to regarding them in a reading. I'm thinking of reading reversals only for the court cards and major arcana....at least it would be consistent.

Now I'm intrigued enough to get the Wirth deck I've been avoiding forever. I assume it's the USGS one we're talking about, since the LoS "Universal Wirth" says it has "56 illustrated minors." I can't believe there isn't some subtlety in every card that I could use to differentiate. Regarding TdM, I went and looked at my Fournier, and - unlike the Classic - they thoughtfully added a Roman numeral to one end of every pip card, so no problem there.
 

Ruby Jewel

If reversals mattered to me, sure. And I've pimped a Rider-Waite deck, trimmed decks, and edged the cards in color. Putting a small dot on 78 cards is nothing compared to the other changes I've made to decks. :)

Sounds fun....what is "pimped" a deck?
 

Ruby Jewel

Now I'm intrigued enough to get the Wirth deck I've been avoiding forever. I assume it's the USGS one we're talking about, since the LoS "Universal Wirth" says it has "56 illustrated minors." I can't believe there isn't some subtlety in every card that I could use to differentiate. Regarding TdM, I went and looked at my Fournier, and - unlike the Classic - they thoughtfully added a Roman numeral to one end of every pip card, so no problem there.

I think you will appreciate the deck. It is really beautiful, gold leaf. I don't have the "Universal Wirth"....I have the "Original and Only Authorized Oswald Wirth Tarot Deck".....as the box says. Actually, I have the vintage one in the dark blue box with white lettering, which is the one I would recommend. Copyright 1976, (USGS) Made in Switzerland by A.G. Muller, ISBN 0-913866-52-0. The back is dark yellow with red flower simulacrum (line) design. There are still a few out there on Ebay. I just bought another deck for $24.75...but that is cheap (which is why I bought it). Still, the old vintage decks are far superior in color and paper quality. They are printed in metallic colors with a gold background. In fact, they are much in demand, so I collect them when I see one at a good price. I figure one day they will triple in money....far superior to the ones printed in China on plastic!! T'would be nice if there were a little Roman Numeral somewhere on the edge, but there isn't.

I also have the one made in Belgium, which is nice...cards are the same, by USGS copyright 1976. It has a picture of the Empress on the front of the box and the Ace of Swords on the back.